1 Week, 3 Big Hikes

[derek.larson]

I'm visiting GNP from 16-23 August with two friends, and their families, and would like to do 3 long hikes during our stay, and would like some recommendations. We run in marathons/ultramarathons, as a point of reference, but we intend to mostly hike, and maybe pick up the pace a bit in a shuffle/slow run where appropriate or to get in before sunset, or if we're behind schedule, while still maintaining a high-state of bear awareness (we don't want to be "those" guys who are spooking bears or other hikers, or spooking bears into other hikers who are doing the right thing). We'll be staying in a home on the east side of the park, not far from Many Glacier.

The 3 I'm considering (in level of difficulty?):

- Dawson-Pitamakan
- Many Glacier-->Ptarmigan Tunnel-->Goat Haunt (and hopefully catch a ride on the boat)
- The Skyline Experience

On the other 4 days, we plan to do a variety of shorter hikes with our wives/children, so those (above) are for us guys to destroy ourselves and get in as much of the park as possible. I imagine the Skyline Experience will take ALL day, with DAW-PIT able to do in a half-day (6-7 hours, of constant motion...maybe a jog, here-and-there). Many Glacier to Goat Haunt is the only one we're going to have to boogie, given the tight schedule to reach the boat in time.

Is there another hike that you would recommend doing in place any of the 3 above?

[Jen]

FYI: The Skyline Experience is all off-trail and would require some serious route finding.

Daw-Pit is a GREAT hike. I think maybe you or Toddnick could do it in 6-7 hours but it took me more like 10-12!

Many Glacier to Goat Haunt could pose a problem if you miss the boat.

Logan Pass to Many Glacier via Swiftcurrent pass is popular for good reason. You would see Granite Park Chalet. Plus if you are fast you could hike up Swiftcurrent mountain before heading down into the Many glacier Valley.

[derek.larson]

Thanks Jen,

Initially, I had another route loop idea, which including Highline and the trails you're recommending, but ever since seeing a video/blog about the Skyline Experience, I have been debating the two. Here was the option I considered doing: http://www.montanatrailcrew.com/2013/09 ... -pass.html.

What is your opinion on this: Do the route as described in the link above (Siyeh Bend to Many Glacier, up Swiftcurrent pass, along the Highline, then back to Siyeh Bend), but add in a trip up-and-down Mount Siyeh? Even though the mileage is considerably more than doing the Skyline Experience, I imagine it would take a similar amount of time, or less.

Yes, I'm aware of the boat timeline. That might be a tight squeeze, but makes it that more appealing to do.

The route finding associated with the Skyline Experience is also a big draw to doing it vs. a marked trail.

Derek

[Jen]

Wow. You weren't kidding about wanting to do something epic!

This will also require an epic trip report what ever you decide to do!

[pitamakan]

I would probably not try the Skyline Experience route during a first visit to Glacier, especially if you don't have prior off-trail hiking experience in this part of the world.

The Many-to-Goat-Haunt route is doable in a day if you're in very good shape, and get an early start, but missing the boat would really suck. I say this from experience, because a number of years ago I hiked from Elizabeth Lake to Goat Haunt in a day ... and missed the boat! (By about two minutes -- we were able to wave to the boat's passengers as it disappeared off to the north.)

As alternatives to the above, I'd think about doing Gunsight Pass as a day hike (with a Sperry Glacier side trip if you're feeling tough), or hiking from Logan Pass to Goat Haunt, or maybe Many Glacier to Chief Mountain. You could add Gable Pass into the latter route if you wanted to make it a little more masochistic.

Mark

[derek.larson]

I had previously considered doing the North Circle or Northern Traverse, but the North Circle seemed like a bit much, and the Northern Traverse had too many logistical issues (didn't want to have the wives, who can't read a map very well, drive all the way around the park to pick us us by Kintla Lake).

By doing Many Glacier to Goat Haunt, that would let us get in a lot of the great trails offered in the North Circle/Northern Traverse, in half the distance. Plus, the wives and kids can enjoy tea-time at the Prince of Wales Hotel in the afternoon after picking us up. Hopefully, we won't have to hike the length of Waterton Lake if we miss the boat.

The epic hike centered on the Many Glacier area is the big question for me (Skyline Experience vs. massive loop of Many Glacier to Granite Park Chalet to Highline to Logan Pass to Siyeh Bend to up/down Mount Siyeh to Many Glacier, or some version of that). What's nice is that there are a lot of "outs" associated with the second option in the event it's a little too much to handle for someone in the group.

[derek.larson]

Mark,

Point taken in regards to the Skyline Experience, which is kind of why I thought of including just the Mount Siyeh portion of it in the Glacier Loop I just described. I'll probably be debating it though for the next several months.

I'm pretty set on the other two options, and if things aren't going well early in the Many Glacier to Goat Haunt hike, we'll pull the plug and make our way to Cheif Mountain or finish it off in a loop hike over Red Gap Pass.

2 minutes, eh? Rough.

Derek

[pitamakan]

2 minutes, eh? Rough.

Yeah, I had a faulty wristwatch along. It's kind of hilarious in retrospect, which is the only way to look at it.

Since we'd spent the previous night at Elizabeth Lake we at least had camping gear along ... and the rangers let us spend the night at the Goat Haunt shelter. It would have REALLY sucked if we'd had to hike all the way to Waterton that evening.

[Hockey Ref]

Why try to cram so much into such a short period? The park isn't going anywhere. Better to enjoy the hikes than try to just pile on the miles.

Daw-Pit isn't doable in 6-7 hours unless you're running. And again, why? What's the point? It's much too scenic a hike to waste it moving so fast.

[paul]

Why try to cram so much into such a short period? The park isn't going anywhere. Better to enjoy the hikes than try to just pile on the miles.

I agree. If you do Many to Goat Haunt in a day, you won't have time to actually enjoy the places along the way.

[derek.larson]

Hockey Ref/Paul,

I totally agree with your interpretations on the best way to experience the park, but we're kind of treating this as a balacing act of seeing as much of the park as possible while still being able to spend some time doing things with our wives & small children later in the day. I'm confident in our abilities to do 3 long hikes during a 1-week stay, traveling very light, and with a bit of trail running mixed in where/when appropriate, without being a burden to those on the trail moving at a slower pace. On the off-days, we'll do a few of the shorter hikes with our families (Grinnell Glacier w/ boat ride, Hidden Lake, etc.).

In the meantime, I think I'm going to watch this video of the Skyline Experience over-and-over again:

Derek

[joybird]

Not sure if you already know this, but the guy who made that Skyline Experience video is actually a member of this chat...
Goes by the handle insearchofhighplaces.

He posted a thread about that trip (which includes a link to the video) here: http://glacier.nationalparkschat.com/ph ... =11&t=7594

He would probably be a great resource for you to talk with directly if you want to know more about that route.

He also did Floral Park and posted a thread about it here recently. You'd probably enjoy reading it as it includes another of his fine trip report videos:

http://glacier.nationalparkschat.com/ph ... =11&t=8102

Whatever route you choose, enjoy yourselves and safe travels to you!

[pitamakan]

My advice would be to just watch the last couple minutes of that Skyline video over and over ... the part that talks about the hours of night hiking through a pitch-black, bear-filled forest, because the length and difficulty of the trip was underestimated.

I honestly don't mean to be cranky, but there's a line when pushing oneself to the limit in a place like Glacier becomes irresponsible ... not just for one's own personal safety, but for the potential of disrupting the lives of search-and-rescue parties. The responsible thing to do is to ease into those sorts of experiences, building up skills as you go. In some ways, I think that videos like that do a serious disservice, because they overlook that key point.

I have a very good friend here in Montana who's an ultra runner, and I think he would be the first to admit that his reasons for doing it have little to do with really appreciating the country he speeds through. Even if one isn't literally running, those sorts of long, almost-nonstop hikes allow you to pass through a landscape but not to really see it. I say that as someone who's hiked that way in the past.

Anyhow, again ... I apologize for the crankiness.

Mark

[derek.larson]

Pitamakan,

Understood. Yes, I watched the whole video and realize the dangers involved of hiking at night. With 3 of us, and maybe 1-2 more, that would hopefully minimize the risk a bit, so long as we remain in close proximity to each other during hours of limited visibility, and continue to make noise. I also noticed that they left a little late in the morning. A possible shorter option would be to not do a loop, but finish at Siyeh Bend after coming off Mount Siyeh in the event we're behind schedule. Anyway, it still seems tempting. I'm going to try to get in contact with someone who's done it to get a better idea if it's a trip we can handle and find out what they would have done differently if they were to do it again. While I haven't been to GNP before (I was in the area in October, but the damn government shutdown screwed things up), I am a careful planner who won't do something I don't think I can safely negotiate. All of your considerations and concerns are being heard. After all, each of you are significantrly more experienced than I am in regards to GNP.

Derek

[teapot57]

Anyhow, again ... I apologize for the crankiness

You're not being cranky, Mark. You are being realistic. I haven't done it but The Skyline Experience looks like more than just a long day hike.

While I haven't been to GNP before (I was in the area in October, but the damn government shutdown screwed things up), I am a careful planner who won't do something I don't think I can safely negotiate. All of your considerations and concerns are being heard. After all, each of you are significantrly more experienced than I am in regards to GNP.

It was actually a relief to read this! Good luck finding the right route for you and your group. It's a fun thing to ponder during the winter months and you'll likely change your mind a few times before you arrive, but it's also good to have options because you never know what might happen once you get there as far as weather, trail closures, etc.