Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a permit

Are you a seasoned hiker, or just starting out? Let us know your questions or experience with the backcountry permit process.

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Re: Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a perm

Post by salmon99 »

orin,

Thanks for the information. We definitely planned on doing some day hikes. The more I read/hear about this area, the more excited I am. We should have a great time.
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Re: Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a perm

Post by cmcj »

Hello all, I am new to backpacking in Glacier and would like to know something about the sites I've been assigned. I'm grateful that we got a trip at all, but we don't know anything about this loop or the campsites. Will you those of you who are familiar with the park tell me about this route? Thanks in advance.

PERMIT # 405
ENTRY CME CHIEF MOUNTAIN
DATE CODE CAMPSITE
7/31 GLH 32 GLENNS LAKE, HD
8/ 1 STO 23 STONEY INDIAN LK
8/ 2 ELH 44 ELIZABETH LAKE, HD
8/ 3 ELH 00 ELIZABETH LAKE, HD
8/ 4 POI 34 POIA LAKE
8/ 5 MAN 22 MANY GLACIER
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Re: Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a perm

Post by Hockey Ref »

cmcj wrote:Hello all, I am new to backpacking in Glacier and would like to know something about the sites I've been assigned. I'm grateful that we got a trip at all, but we don't know anything about this loop or the campsites. Will you those of you who are familiar with the park tell me about this route? Thanks in advance.

PERMIT # 405
ENTRY CME CHIEF MOUNTAIN
DATE CODE CAMPSITE
7/31 GLH 32 GLENNS LAKE, HD
8/ 1 STO 23 STONEY INDIAN LK
8/ 2 ELH 44 ELIZABETH LAKE, HD
8/ 3 ELH 00 ELIZABETH LAKE, HD
8/ 4 POI 34 POIA LAKE
8/ 5 MAN 22 MANY GLACIER
Well, it's a sort-of loop if you consider that you will also be doing a lot of backtracking. You'll basically head southwest from the start at Chief Mountain until you get to Stoney Indian Lake, then you'll turn around and go back the way you came until you switch trails to get to the head of Elizabeth Lake (that looks like a 17-mile day, by the way). After spending what looks like two nights at ELH, you'll backtrack down that trail until you swing southeast to Poia Lake and then out at Many Glacier. There's some great scenery along the way, and some thick forest, too (more on that below), but it's a shame you'll be doing so much backtracking. I'm also not sure why you'd want two nights at ELH as the only thing to do during the day between the nights would be the short hike to Helen Lake and back (5.4 miles total).

When you arrive at the park and pick up your permit at a ranger station (do this the day BEFORE your trip starts), try to see if you can make some changes that will eliminate the backtracking. So instead of turning around at Stoney, you'd continue on to Fifty Mountain (FIF), then to Granite Park (GRN), and exit either by continuing on the Highline trail to Logan Pass or walking over Swiftcurrent Pass from Granite Park and heading down into Many Glacier. Transportation logistics might be a factor for the last day out, but otherwise this would be a much better loop, in my opinion, than what you have now, simply because you won't hike the same ground twice. If you haven't done so already, you can get a better idea of what your route looks like and what I suggested by checking out the map at this link: http://www.nps.gov/archive/glac/whatsne ... /bcmap.htm. The start of your hike is in the upper right corner.

Also, much of the ground you'll cover between Cosley Lake and Glenn's Lake is through thick forest with no views, which is one reason I wouldn't want to backtrack it. The hike from Glenn's Lake to Stoney is wonderful and quite scenic, and it gets even better if you can continue on to FIF and GRN instead of turning around. (Note that there is a notorious snowdrift known as the Ahern Drift that could block your way if you are otherwise able to alter your route. The drift lies between FIF and GRN and could be very dangerous, if not impassable, even in early August. I did that route during early August in 2008 and the day we went through a trail crew blasted the drift with explosives to make it passable.)

The best campsite on your listed trip I think will be Stoney, although it can be very buggy. Glenn's Lake head is okay (I've seen it but never stayed there), and I can't speak for Elizabeth Lake head. Poia is okay, but not spectacular, and the hump over Red Gap Pass to get there can be a real grind, especially if it's hot. If you can make the suggested change, FIF is a great site in terms of scenery and wildlife (some very tame deer hang around it), but it also can be buggy. And if you can snag a bunk bed at Granite Park chalet instead of sleeping in the GRN campground below the chalet, it's highly worth it.

No mater if you end up with your original route, or if you get to make changes, it's rugged country with lots of challenging climbing to go along with the flat, forested areas. You'll need to be in good shape, especially if you end up doing the 17-mile hike from STO to ELH with full packs. Red Gap Pass on the way to Poia is no picnic, either, but I already mentioned that.

Hope this helps.
Last edited by Hockey Ref on Fri May 13, 2011 1:02 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a perm

Post by Heff936 »

CMCJ:
I'll echo some of Hockey Ref's comments but wanted to add a few thoughts. I've stayed at Glenn Lake Head several times and actually like it a lot. It is relatively open which allows the breezes to reach the camps and this has helped keep the mosquitoes down. It's also pretty scenic looking across the lake at the massive Mt. Merritt and at Pyramid Peak at the south end of the lake. The hike up Stoney Indian pass is one of my favorite passes in the park. Boulder and Gunsight passes are also great but Stoney Indian is near the top in my book. It also divides nicely into 3 steps, which makes the ascent seem easier.

If you can make some changes when you check in, I agree with Ref that adding FIF and GRN would eliminate any backtracking. If you can't do that, I'd suggest seeing if you can change your first night at ELH, for a night at Cosley. This would give you a more manageable day coming from Stoney Indian. The hike over Rad Gap pass will give you a good view, but I'd suggest getting a moderately early start on your way to Poia because the route up that side of pass is exposed and can get very hot on sunny days. Poia is near the bottom of my personal list with respect to camps but given it's your last night it will be fine.

Whether you get to make changes to your itinerary or not, you'll have a great trip. I hope you'll post photos and write up a trip report afterward.
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Re: Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a perm

Post by Hockey Ref »

I'll second Heff's suggestion of trying to get a night at Cosley or, maybe even better, at Mokowanis Lake. I'd also recommend Elizabeth Lake foot (ELF) over the head (ELH), if you can make a switch. I haven't seen ELH, but I've been to ELF, and it's a very nice site with a spectacular view, a nice, wide, gravel-covered beach along the shore (great for lying back and stargazing), and tent sites that catch the lake breeze and help keep the skeeters at bay.
Last edited by Hockey Ref on Fri May 13, 2011 12:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a perm

Post by paul »

cmcj wrote:Hello all, I am new to backpacking in Glacier and would like to know something about the sites I've been assigned. I'm grateful that we got a trip at all, but we don't know anything about this loop or the campsites. Will you those of you who are familiar with the park tell me about this route? Thanks in advance.

PERMIT # 405
ENTRY CME CHIEF MOUNTAIN
DATE CODE CAMPSITE
7/31 GLH 32 GLENNS LAKE, HD
8/ 1 STO 23 STONEY INDIAN LK
8/ 2 ELH 44 ELIZABETH LAKE, HD
8/ 3 ELH 00 ELIZABETH LAKE, HD
8/ 4 POI 34 POIA LAKE
8/ 5 MAN 22 MANY GLACIER
Hey cmcj,

I'll be in that are between 8/3 and 8/6 so we may run into each other. Especially if you switch sites to Cosley lake.
Let's hope for good weather!!

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Re: Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a perm

Post by Cunneyworth »

Almost gave up all hope of getting my first ever permit for GNP.
I ended up getting my permit in the mail instead of by e-mail on Friday.

Permit #679

Enter Goat Haunt
7/17 Kootenai Lake
7/18 Kootenai Lake
7/19 Lake Janet
7/20 Lake Janet
7/21 Brown Pass
7/22 Lake Janet
Exit Goat Haunt

My friends and I are pumped, although we're a little worried about all the snow we've been hearing about this year.
Our initial plan was to take in the view from the top of Mount Cleveland.

If lady luck isn't on our side and there is too much snow for us near the top of Cleveland, can anyone suggest day hikes or places of interest we should keep in mind?
Thanks in advance, we can't wait to soak in a little bit of GNP and what the north end of the park has to offer.
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Re: Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a perm

Post by Heff936 »

In terms of dayhikes in that area you might want to try Porcupine Lookout or hike up to Stoney Indian pass from KOO. I'd suggest trying to change at least one of your Lake Janet days to Lake Francis. Janet is pretty buggy early in the season and the views don't compare with Frances. I'd also suggest hiking up toward Hole-in-the-Wall. If you are comfortable going around the cirque and crossing the steep snowfields you might also want to go up to Boulder Pass and from there up Boulder Peak. At least those would be my suggestions. My wife and I will be at KOO on the 21st and Lake Francis on the 22nd. Maybe we'll see you one the trail.
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Re: Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a perm

Post by Cunneyworth »

Thanks for the info Heff936.

I received my map in the mail last week, so I'll definitely take a look at your suggestions.
You mentioned snow fields, would we be needing ice axes if we were to attempt to go through Boulder Pass?
We don't have experience with or own ice axes.
Maybe we will run into each other on the trail, I'll be the one with a Canadian Flag on my backpack.

Thanks again.
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Re: Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a perm

Post by HMFIC04 »

This was my first attempt at getting a permit and I think I did ok...

ENTRY CME CHIEF MOUNTAIN
DATE CODE CAMPSITE
8/26 COS 22 COSLEY LAKE
8/27 MOJ 11 MOKOWANIS JUNCTION
8/28 STO 23 STONEY INDIAN LK
8/29 WAT 22 WATERTON RIVER
8/30 HAW 21 HAWKSBILL
8/31 HOL 12 HOLE IN THE WALL
9/ 1 KIN 44 KINTLA LAKE, HD
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Re: Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a perm

Post by Heff936 »

You did more than OK!!! :D You will love this route. I'd suggest trying to change MOJ to MOL, or GLH and Hawksbill to FRA when you check in to pick up your permit. If you accomplish that you will have a perfect trip on the Great Northern Traverse of Glacier. This is my favorite backpacking route in the park and I've done it several times and will again this summer. :arrow:
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Re: Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a perm

Post by HMFIC04 »

Thanks for the tip.

I didn't think I was going to get as lucky as I did.
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Re: Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a perm

Post by Heff936 »

Cunneyworth:

Sorry for the slow reply. The route to Boulder pass goes around a cirque and is likely to have some fairly steep snowfields across the trail well into July and perhaps beyond. So I do think an ice axe would be a good idea as well as some knowledge of the self arrest technique. The snow may well be soft by then and so the trail may we well cut in by backpackers, but then again, it's better to be safe than sorry. We are bringing our ice axes, primarily for that cirque. We'll keep an eye out for the Canadian flag on your pack and hope to meet up.
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Incredible luck despite missing April deadline, #922

Post by peleebird »

Got Hawksbill, HOL and Lake Frances for Aug 27 to 29! Have done this exact route prior, but this time with my adult daughter who wants to try backpacking despite being advised she has to carry the tent. If the weather's even half decent, she will be spoiled forever for going anywhere else. Maybe we'll get back to Waterton in time for high tea. :arrow:
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Re: Curious - if you are one of the lucky ones to get a perm

Post by liketohike »

PERMIT # 1049
> ENTRY TNE TWO MEDICINE NORTH SH
> DATE CODE CAMPSITE
> 8/27 NON 21 NO NAME LK
> 8/28 OLD 24 OLDMAN LAKE

I faxed the request in about 10 days ago based on the campsite availability listed on nps website at the time... I was getting skeptical the last few days as the availability has changed and we haven't heard anything, but the email came today. I'm excited we'll get to enjoy the Dawson loop and possibly add a peak?! :D
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