first timer to GNP, early season recommendations

[jrichspokane]

Hello everyone,

I'm doing a weeklong camping/backpacking trip to glacier with several family members from 6/22 - 6/27 this year. We know late June is pretty early in the season, but it's the only time that would work for all of us. Our thinking is that we will designate a base camp and then fill the week with day hikes and maybe a backcountry overnighter or two. We are all first timers to GNP. We are mostly in very good shape but with varied levels of technical hiking/backpacking skills. So with that in mind, does anyone have recommendations for:

1. best campgrounds in late June we could make our home base for a week?
2. Best early season backcountry overnighters?

Thanks ahead of time! We are all extremely excited for our first trip to Glacier.

[orin]

My favorite early season backpacking destination is the Belly River. Elizabeth Lake, Cosley Lake and perhaps even Mokowanis Lake would work for your time frame. Also the Goat Haunt area. Kootenai Lakes and Lake Francis should be open. Download the backcountry guide from the park website and look at the backcountry campground list and typical opening dates. Anything opening for reservations 6/15 or earlier would be a good bet for you. You won't necessarily need an advance reservation for late June. It is a good idea to check as the time arrives though because conditions do vary a lot.

[Jay w]

I'd look at a map, and then find the bridges. A lot of those will not be in place as of Jun 22nd. So then the chore will be to do the research and fit if any of those bridges are permanent. Who knows, it's a low snow year so maybe the crews will be out early.

So, a campground like Avalanche will be warmer (since it's on the west side), but it doesn't have power (in the bathrooms) or showers. So Many Glacier is an obvious choice, plus I think the east side has better hikes. Part of this depends on if you want solitude or comforts.

Jay

[jrichspokane]

This is great information. One of the challenges we will be facing is that people will be joining us at different times throughout the week. With that in mind, Many Glacier might be the most convenient base camp. Would belly river be good for a backcountry overnighter? Or would we need a couple nights to do it justice? We've heard a lot of good things about Waterton Lake and Goat haunt. We actually thought that might be a cool base camp location - is there enough out of Goat haunt to span a week during that time of year or would we need to relocate to another part of the park after several days? If we wanted to do a longer hike, I'm guessing it would be unrealistic to hike from chief mountain all the way to goat haunt at the end of June?

[smahurin]

I'd look at a map, and then find the bridges. A lot of those will not be in place as of Jun 22nd. So then the chore will be to do the research and fit if any of those bridges are permanent. Who knows, it's a low snow year so maybe the crews will be out early.

So, a campground like Avalanche will be warmer (since it's on the west side), but it doesn't have power (in the bathrooms) or showers. So Many Glacier is an obvious choice, plus I think the east side has better hikes. Part of this depends on if you want solitude or comforts.

Jay

I could be wrong, but I'd be willing to bet all the suspension bridges would be in-place by late june. I can't be certain but I'm pretty sure all of the belly river suspension bridges at least were in place last year by the end of may. Maybe one or two of the high elevation stream crossing bridges might not be in, but I would think that's more a result of the passes they lead to potentially being snowed in than anything. (I'm thinking something like one of the atsina crossings might not have a bridge... I assume they install a bridge over this? i've waded it before, just assumed they bridge it later in the season).

But again, I could be mistaken.

[orin]

Would belly river be good for a backcountry overnighter? Or would we need a couple nights to do it justice?

It would be fine for an overnighter to Gable Creek (6 miles) or Cosley Lake (9 miles) or Elizabeth Lake (9 miles?) but doing it justice would take several nights.

is there enough out of Goat haunt to span a week during that time of year

probably not enough to span a week given that the passes would likely still be snowed in

I'm guessing it would be unrealistic to hike from chief mountain all the way to goat haunt at the end of June?

Unrealistic for most people to cross Stoney Indian Pass that early most years. Although given mountaineering skills and a low snow year who knows.

[MarxMN]

You could go into Belly River with Gable Creek as a camp, spend the afternoon hiking to Cosley Lake and beyond or to Elizabeth Lake and possibly beyond. Or spend two nights at Gable Creek and explore both routes. Hiking up Bear Mountain would provide great views.

[jrichspokane]

Well, this is what I've come up with. But I wanted to run it by the experts before applying for a trip permit It looks like our entire party will be there by early Wednesday morning, so this is a W-Sa itinerary. When I was putting it together I was looking for campgrounds that allowed fires. I might be overthinking the importance of being able to do that. Anyways, does this appear way too ambitious? Is there a different way of laying out the trip that would make more sense? We really want to hit some cool waterfalls and that's why I wanted to include Margaret Lake. Are there any really great campgrounds I'm overlooking? Maybe rather than stay at Glenns Lake for 2 nights, would it make sense to hit another campground that second night? And what are your thoughts on the general idea of choosing sites that allow campfires? Thanks for your collective wisdom and experience!

Day 1: Hike from Chief Mountain Customs to Glenns Lake HD (will include a side hike to Bear Mountain Overlook)
Day 2: Explore Mokowanis Lake, Margaret Lake (camp at Glenns Lake HD again)
Day 3: Hike from Glenns Lake HD to Elizabeth Lake HD - camp at Elizabeth Lake HD (Maybe a side hike to Helen Lake)
Day 4: Hike from Elizabeth Lake HD back to Chief Mountain Customs and head out.

[PeteE]

Well, this is what I've come up with. But I wanted to run it by the experts before applying for a trip permit It looks like our entire party will be there by early Wednesday morning, so this is a W-Sa itinerary. When I was putting it together I was looking for campgrounds that allowed fires. I might be overthinking the importance of being able to do that. Anyways, does this appear way too ambitious? Is there a different way of laying out the trip that would make more sense? We really want to hit some cool waterfalls and that's why I wanted to include Margaret Lake. Are there any really great campgrounds I'm overlooking? Maybe rather than stay at Glenns Lake for 2 nights, would it make sense to hit another campground that second night? And what are your thoughts on the general idea of choosing sites that allow campfires? Thanks for your collective wisdom and experience!

Day 1: Hike from Chief Mountain Customs to Glenns Lake HD (will include a side hike to Bear Mountain Overlook)
Day 2: Explore Mokowanis Lake, Margaret Lake (camp at Glenns Lake HD again)
Day 3: Hike from Glenns Lake HD to Elizabeth Lake HD - camp at Elizabeth Lake HD (Maybe a side hike to Helen Lake)
Day 4: Hike from Elizabeth Lake HD back to Chief Mountain Customs and head out.

I did a similar itinerary a couple years ago with a couple chatters from here.

I have one suggestion though:
You need to forget about Bear Mtn overlook unless you are VERY strong hikers.

Glenns Lake Head(GLH) is 12.9 miles from Chief Mountain. Going to Bear mtn overlook(and back down) would add about 3.5-4 miles to the 12.9 to GLH making Day 1 17miles with full packs. Bear mountain is also steep with significant elevation gain, a pretty strenuous hike. And you can't leave packs at the bottom unattended while you hike up to the overlook.

Trying to do Bear mtn could easily ruin your whole trip, particularly for the less experienced in your group.
Why take a chance on some getting blisters, etc, on Day 1?

Margaret lake is well worth seeing and exploring around. Beautiful waterfall on the way up.
GLH is a good place to camp and it's an easy hike to Margaret Lake from there; we did it from Glenn's lake Foot(GLF)
One word of caution. In late June the "bushwhack" from Mokowanis lake CG will require some route finding as in late June the shrubbery will be nearly head high in places. make sure you are "bear aware" everywhere, but especially on a hike like that. Bears will be plenty active that time of year.

If I can find my video from that trip, I'll see about posting it when I get a chance.
Overall, I believe your itinerary is a good one.

pete

[PeteE]

Here's the link for the beginning of the hike.
I hope T&M don't mind.


pete

[Ear Mountain]

Well, this is what I've come up with. But I wanted to run it by the experts before applying for a trip permit It looks like our entire party will be there by early Wednesday morning, so this is a W-Sa itinerary. ...

Day 1: Hike from Chief Mountain Customs to Glenns Lake HD (will include a side hike to Bear Mountain Overlook)
Day 2: Explore Mokowanis Lake, Margaret Lake (camp at Glenns Lake HD again)
Day 3: Hike from Glenns Lake HD to Elizabeth Lake HD - camp at Elizabeth Lake HD (Maybe a side hike to Helen Lake)
Day 4: Hike from Elizabeth Lake HD back to Chief Mountain Customs and head out.

Don't forget the time you need to get your permit and then drive to the trailhead.

[jrichspokane]

Several of us will actually be in the park from the beginning of the week on Monday. I think we will probably camp at Many Glacier and do some day hikes - so we should be able to take care of the permits on Tuesday. And the whole party is actually getting to the park by late Tuesday night so we should be good to go first thing Wednesday morning.

[orin]

I agree that the first day would be tough. You could also stay at Cosley the first night. The lookout trail is near camp and a couple of miles closer than GH. You could set up camp and then do the lookout. Then the next day continue on to either Glens Head or Mokowanis Lake and do Margaret Lake in the afternoon.

[PeteE]

I agree that the first day would be tough. You could also stay at Cosley the first night. The lookout trail is near camp and a couple of miles closer than GH. You could set up camp and then do the lookout. Then the next day continue on to either Glens Head or Mokowanis Lake and do Margaret Lake in the afternoon.

Yeah, I agree with Orin on his suggestion. That's a better plan to include Bear Mtn overlook. You'll still have time to go to Margaret lake.

And if you have a member who may not be quite up to Bear Mtn after setting up camp at Cosley...he/she/they can stay in camp.
Once your tents(permits on tents) are up and food/smelly stuff is hung on the food pole, nobody needs to stay in camp. If anyone does stay behind, they can go off and explore wherever they want.

You know the ability(s) of those in your party. I believe it's sound advice to not overdo day 1 because it can make the rest of the trip a real drag....for everyone, not just the person with bad blisters, sprain, whatever.

pete

[jrichspokane]

I just received notice from the park that we were approved for the following itinerary:

Day 1: enter at chief mountain (we will be taking the Lee ridge trail), camp at Cosley Lake
Day 2: camp at the head of Glenns Lake (we will spend the day exploring mokowanis and margaret lakes)
Day 3: camp at the head of Elizabeth Lake (may spend the early morning heading up stoney indian pass a bit and checking out some waterfalls before hiking over to ELH)
Day 4: exit at chief mountain

I can't express how thrilled I am with this. Thanks to all of your for your help!!