Ice Axes

[toddnick]

Based on the requirement for an ice axe for at least one of my GMS climbs, I just went out and purchased an $80 Black Diamond ice axe; the EMS storeperson didn't know much of anything about their use and I have never used one.

I briefly glanced at the instructions during lunch break and it mentions having a strap (I'll read more after work when I get a chance but I thought I'd throw it up here as well); is that something else that I should have purchased?? Any recommendations or advice on straps?? Are there any other "ice axe" accessories that I might need??

I hate to sound like a beginner, but I am with this equipment....

[poky5mom]

I ordered plastic tips for our ice axes so we don't stab ourselves!
Kim

[Selkie]

I hate to sound like a beginner, but I am with this equipment....

Hi Todd, There are various YouTube videos as well as online instructions on how to use an ice axe and the appropriate leash or tether.
Can you contact GMS trip leader?
Will you have some practice time? Diagonally across the body, etc. Logan Pass might provide some slopes with long, gentle runouts to practice on, although the snow may also be very soft.

[toddnick]

Thanks, after I finish reading the instructions, I'll check out the videos!!!!

[Ear Mountain]

Ice axes are dangerous tools and are worthless unless you know how to use it.

I would definitely suggest that you get a leash (strap) for your ice axe. Drop an ice axe down a steep snow surface and you will have nothing with which to do a self arrest.

Watching the videos is nice but spending a few hours on steep snow, where there is a safe runout, practicing self arrests is critical. A good spot to practice is behind the moraine that is above the boardwalk on the Hidden Pass Trail above the Logan Pass VC. It is best to have someone with you that knows how to use an ice axe so that they can make sure you are doing things correctly. Best not to develop bad habits.

The worst first place to use an ice axe is when you reach a steep snow slope on a trail and there is no place to practice first.

[toddnick]

Thanks Ralph,

I'm hoping to get some practice on my warm-up hike (Shangri-La)......equipment is never any good if you don't know how to use it....

[Selkie]

I think protocol requires you to yell "Falling!" when you fail to self-arrest and go over the cliff, so others can get out of your way.

I'm also thinking someone from Rocky Mountain Outfitters in Kalispell might know of an ice climber (possibly themselves) who'd be willing to give a 4-hour lesson on ice axe use.

[Farmgirl]

4-hour lesson on ice axe use.

Really? or is there some underlying sarcasm here?

[Ear Mountain]

I think protocol requires you to yell "Falling!" when you fail to self-arrest and go over the cliff, so others can get out of your way.

I'm also thinking someone from Rocky Mountain Outfitters in Kalispell might know of an ice climber (possibly themselves) who'd be willing to give a 4-hour lesson on ice axe use.

Generally one yells falling when on a rope to let the others on that rope know that they may need to help with the arrest. This IMHO is not something to joke about. Failing to make the arrest and going over a cliff is not good!

[Selkie]

4-hour lesson on ice axe use.

Really? or is there some underlying sarcasm here?

No sarcasm at all! 4 hours of privatized instruction seems minimal fast-tracking to learn and practice the basics of climbing with an ice axe (the right way to lean on it for support), how to self-arrest in multiple positions, when to use it at all, what to do if you are wearing foot traction. How to approach and traverse ice, how to read ice and slope angles. How to test for weight; the feel of ice buckling. What to do if a hold or self-arrest fails. Consequences of impaling yourself. What to do with the leash/tether. Roped climbs.
Anyway, I wish Todd well in his adventures and will butt out.
Have a wonderful time!

(Ralph, you're right: it's when roped together that one tries to alert others.)

[poky5mom]

Is there someone at Glacier who can teach you how to use an ice axe?

[Ear Mountain]

There are no mountain schools near Glacier that I know of. Closest might be one of the climbing schools in the Grand Teton National Park. There may also be some in the Bozeman area. Of course there is the climbing school at Mount Rainier.

[trevbo]

Yamnuska based out of Canmore offers courses ranging from 5 day Intro to Mountaineering courses to weekend snow and ice schools... they usually do these courses based out of Bow Hut (on the Wapta icefields) or throw in a summit attempt of Mt. Athabasca on the Columbia Icefields... or you could hire a private guide (Yam or other guide service) to cover your specific needs.

[mtjana]

It didn't sound like the salesperson knew too much... Are you good with the size you got (did they go over that with you)?