slug420,
East Glacier has some decent lodging options, if you wanted to explore that sector of the Park. Right across the big lawn and railroad tracks from East Glacier Lodge.
Things have indeed changed - considerably - since your last visit.
Visitation is insane. The Park has instituted a dashboard, active during the summer, with estimates of wait times to get a parking space in various lots, and stops traffic on approach roads to those lots when the lots are full - including the road into Many Glacier. Waiting 2-3 hours just to access a road to a parking lot could be difficult with a toddler.
The entity operating the shuttle service terminated its agreement with the Park in December:
https://www.nps.gov/glac/learn/news/gla ... ervice.htm
The area in Canada that precedes Glacier NP, USA, on your itinerary is beautiful. 2 weeks cannot do it justice. Waterfalls, short hikes, towering mountains, wild animals by the roadside. Decent hostels and campgrounds; fewer moderately priced rooms (in your position, with a toddler, I might look into renting a small RV in Canada). A tad colder.
Jasper (as I expect you know) is 237 km north of Lake Louise on the Icefields Parkway, which is gorgeous and invites many stops, including short hikes to massive waterfalls, glaciers galore, and ooh-aah moments. It's the Canadian Rockies! Jasper is a destination town (originally for the railroads), and hotel prices are high. Wapiti Campground is quite nice and takes reservations. If you travel west of Jasper on rte 16 (Yellowhead Highway) to Tete Jaune Cache, I can recommend the $75/night cabins at Tete Jaune Lodge and campground. Big buffet every evening elsewhere on the grounds, and right on the Fraser River.
Banff is also a railroad destination town. A few things - not many - of interest in the townsite itself (lots of International chains; think The North Face and Columbia clothing store). A river walk to the Fairmont Banff Hotel, perhaps to take in a boat ride, could make a very nice day. Banff has a hostel. Several hostels in the general area have family or private rooms.
https://hihostels.ca/en/destinations/alberta/hi-banff
Check also the hostels along the Icefields Parkway (Athabasca?), Lake Louise, and in Field (not an HI hostel) for private rooms.
Expect animals to walk through the grounds at night. "Yes, we have bears" (shrug).
Good luck!