GNP 2018 - SBE to LPE (the long way)

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zozeppelin
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GNP 2018 - SBE to LPE (the long way)

Post by zozeppelin »

Trip report from 2018, year of the Howe Ridge fire.

Days -n

By summer 2018 I had the itch again. I hadn't been to Glacier since 2012. The Howe Ridge fire was running through the park, putting things in jeopardy.

By early September, I stalked the fire updates and advanced permit availability long enough that I put in for the pieces to build an extended great circle - MAN-ELF-GLH-STO-FIF-FLA-PRE starting the 15th, with intention of adding/substituting SBE-MAN (personal favorite) and FIF-GRN-LPE upon arrival since they weren't available for advanced reservation. I was going solo for the first time, and with the long trip duration I was conservative on the daily mileage. I put in my permit .... waited 3 days and rejected ?! So I called and they agreed it was valid and issued the advance reservation.

Day 0
Arrived in the afternoon to Missoula, drove up just in time make the Lake McDonald ranger station cutoff. They informed me MAN wasn't available and since the start of my trip was 2 days out I couldn't modify the end (deja-vu for 2019). But they advised I could do the hiker/biker at Many Glacier without a permit and just pickup the permit that day or the morning of the next at MAN. I begged them to just give me the permit now knowing that was what I was going to do.... but no such luck. Spent the rest of the night gathering supplies.
Last edited by zozeppelin on Sat Jul 04, 2020 8:32 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: GNP 2018 - SBE to LPE (the long way)

Post by zozeppelin »

Day 1 -
Itinerary: Siyeh Bend to Many Glacier Campground
Mileage: 15
Elevation Gain: 1720
Elevation Loss: 2642
Bear locker: yes

GTTSR was closed between Lake McDonnald and Logan Pass due to the fire - so I had to drive around on HWY 2 to enter from the east side. I woke up very early to get to St Mary's at 6 AM, to ensure I could make the permit modifications I wanted. Still hard no on the MAN campsite (even though I told them I my intentions regardless), but they did make the GRN for FLA substitution. So upwards and onwards.

I've done Piegan Pass now 3 times and it probably is my favorite hike in Glacier. The end is always a big of a slog (especially going South to Reynolds Creek), but what a rewarding day. Day was mostly overcast so pictures aren't great, but did have recent snow, so that looked nice. Weather was a little brisk, but the start of the hike quickly took care of that. Only had my cell phone on this trip, so that wasn't helping. Saw a sow and cubs next to Lake Josephine.

Met a bunch of CDT hikers at MAN on their 2nd to last day, impressive.

Pack Weight 54 lbs, not great. Last year of real food.
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Colorful dead vegetation on the way to Piegan.
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Back towards Jackson Glacier, with low clouds/fog.
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Panorama at the pass
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Looking North into the valley. Mt Clevland (I think) nicely highlighted with the snow.
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Mama and 3 cubs (if you look closely).
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Last edited by zozeppelin on Fri Jul 03, 2020 11:39 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: GNP 2018 - SBE to LPE (the long way)

Post by zozeppelin »

Day 2 -
Itinerary: Many Glacier Campground to Lake Elizabeth (foot)
Mileage: 10
Elevation Gain: 2480
Elevation Loss: 2518
Bear locker: yes

First time to the tunnel, and it blew away expectations on both sides. I slowed towards the end with the constant steady downhill. Met a group from Louisiana at site (came from Paoi lake, and were a little on edge from having a moose run through their camp the night prior) and a two girls that came from Stoney doing the circle as well (opposite direction) - they were ready to go home. Looked like rain was coming (was predicted to rain all week).

At the tunnel looking back.
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Side profile (notice how few people as well).
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Elizabeth Lake from the tunnel looking north.
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Panorama with Helen Lake.
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More colored dead stuff.
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Last edited by zozeppelin on Fri Jul 03, 2020 5:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: GNP 2018 - SBE to LPE (the long way)

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Day 3 -
Itinerary: Lake Elizabeth (foot) to Glenn's Lake (head)
Mileage: 8.3
Elevation Gain: 260
Elevation Loss: 290
Bear locker: no

Rained a little overnight and wasn't looking good in the morning. I was getting some hot spots on my feet, so when I do that I switch over to sandals for awhile, which also made sense because I had the Cosley Lake crossing to make.

I was trucking along north of Lake Elizabeth and was stopped dead in my tracks by a bull moose coming at me on the trail - I think we surprised each other. I took some slow steps back, maybe 20 feet, and then he went 20 feet forward. I didn't have any room to get off the trail as it was near the river bank and pretty steep on either side. Eventually after 3 sets of tango, he went uphill. I didn't have my camera/phone on as I was trying to save batteries. That'll get the heart rate going.

Eventually made it to Cosley, and saw some elk running, pretty cool. Once I crossed, the sky opened up and started to hail, not great. I eventually made it to camp, setup and tried to dry out in the tent. There was only a father-son pair there, and that was it. Only crossed one other group on the trail that day.

I really enjoyed the campsite. There was a sow moose in lake eating at dusk. I was mesmerized by Pyramid Peak and the lake.

Elk in action.
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Hindsight 20/20 on footwear.
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Panorama of Camp.
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Panorama with Moose on left and Pyramid Peak on right, Glenn's Lake center.
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Sun peaked out a bit at the end. Fire and Ice.
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Last edited by zozeppelin on Fri Jul 03, 2020 6:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: GNP 2018 - SBE to LPE (the long way)

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Day 4 -
Itinerary: Glenn's Lake (head) to Stoney Indian
Mileage: 6.1
Elevation Gain: 2448
Elevation Loss: 1000
Bear locker: yes

Today was going to be short, so I took my time in the morning trying to dry out my gear. The ascent to Stoney Indian pass is really cool with the different levels and lakes. I didn't see anyone on the trail and only one other joined me at camp (coming from Lake Mokowanis). Sounded like he went to Glacier every year and had been just about everywhere in the park. He would be joining me the next night at Fifty Mountain as well. Had some good tips, such as being careful with your gear at Stoney with the mule deer (pole straps, shoes, etc anything with sweat) and putting rocks under the bear box latches at Fifety as supposedly the mice know how to open the boxes (took his word for it).



Goodbye Belly River
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Panorama with last looks of Belly River
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Atsina Lake and Cathedral Peak (I think).
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Rounding the lake and upwards
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Wahcheechee (pass to the right)
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Looking up at the pass
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Panorama looking back on last ascent
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Panorama at the pass
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Stoney Indian Lake (from the pass)
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Almost sunset looking west
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Sunset looking west
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Last edited by zozeppelin on Sat Jul 04, 2020 7:32 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: GNP 2018 - SBE to LPE (the long way)

Post by zozeppelin »

Day 5 -
Itinerary: Stoney Indian to Fifty Mountain
Mileage: 8.2
Elevation Gain: 2800
Elevation Loss: 1725
Bear locker: yes

Got moving fairly early, finally with dry shoes again. Pretty cool descending into the cloud table. Downhill was a bit jagged but went quickly. The only persons I encountered on the trail were two chainsaw crew working on forms to provide some stability on the side slopes. I ate lunch after reaching the top and right before the camp. There were some grizzlies(?) on the prowl further towards the cliff. Pretty cool backdrop with the Lewis(?) range. Fifty mountain was nice (burnt). In addition to the guy from Stoney, there was a couple from Michigan that started at Mokowanis Junction (they put in some work) that arrived late. And a CDT hiker that came from Many Glacier (via swiftcurrent) arriving at night - wow. Wind picked up pretty strong nearing the evening - ended up putting rocks in the corners of the tent. The experienced guy let the CDT guy know there should be water up the dry runoff creek (rangers said no water) and there was (I had to backtrack maybe 1/3 mile to another stream, but no big deal as it had good flow).

Starting the day into the Waterton valley abyss
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Finally out of the fog, looking up at the upper highline.
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Arguably my favorite picture of the trip, looking back down at Waterton valley.
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More fog in the valley
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Bear on the ridge
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Panorama heading into Fifty
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Lunch spot
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This slowly crawled over and overtook the camp.
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Last edited by zozeppelin on Sat Jul 04, 2020 7:08 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: GNP 2018 - SBE to LPE (the long way)

Post by zozeppelin »

Day 6 -
Itinerary: Fifty Mountain to Granite Park
Mileage: 11.9
Elevation Gain: 1780
Elevation Loss: 1910
Bear locker: no

Today I hiked with the couple from Michigan and they almost walked me off the mountain but I was able to keep up. We first went up to Sue Lake Overlook in hopes the fog was clear on the other side, but no such luck. Upper Highline is kindof meh in my opinion - yes some nice distant views but not on the same level as other days I've had, maybe it is the distance vs in your face of the famous highline that is the difference. Arrived camp and it's always fun to see the freshly showered folk just getting started to go through what you've already passed. This time it was a group from MN, who had the last laugh as they let me know my football team (WI) lost to BYU - ouch. I like Granite Park, it's not the most secluded nor spacious, nor does it have a lake, but I like it.

Around the bend
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Natural Spring
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Looking back
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Down into the valley
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More valley
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Coming into Granite Park
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Last edited by zozeppelin on Sat Jul 04, 2020 7:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: GNP 2018 - SBE to LPE (the long way)

Post by zozeppelin »

Day 7 -
Itinerary: Granite Park to Logan Pass
Mileage: 7.6
Elevation Gain: 1026
Elevation Loss: 830

Welcome back to civilization day! I wanted to get moving early because I had a plane to catch out of Missoula. I forgot there was incline on the Highline. I choose the highline out because a) I didn't like swiftcurrent the one time I did it and b) I needed to get back to my car. Always a remarkable journey on that trail, I think it was even better in reverse. The good news is that GTTSR opened back up so I wouldn't have to drive around to St Marys and down on HWY 2. I was trucking along and was caught off guard by some mountain sheep, after a brief showdown that passed. Started running into the locals around Haystack Butte. I hitched a ride down to Siyeh Bend and then straight to the Apgar visitors center for a sovengier coffee cup, the KOA for a shower, Denny's for some eggs and Big Sky for a victory beer (conveniently located near the airport).

Up and out of camp
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Like the moose, we surprised each other:
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The rest of the gang
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Further out
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Panorama approaching the butte
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Oberlin and Clements (I think this is why I liked hiking more in this direction)
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Panorama nearing the end
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Topo (the long way indeed)
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Last edited by zozeppelin on Sun Jul 05, 2020 10:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: GNP 2018 - SBE to LPE (the long way)

Post by paul »

Looks like you had a great trip. I enjoyed the pictures. Thanks
We are in the mountains and the mountains are in us. - John Muir
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